A Standard Water Control representative will meet with you to determine where the radon system will be installed.  It is best to run the pipes inside the walls of the home.  If necessary, the pipes can be run outside, but you should be aware of the potential for freezing.

Holes are drilled in the wall, soffet and roof to provide access for the exhaust pipe.

The exhaust pipe is installed at least two feet above the roof line to ensure downdrafts won’t force any radon gas into open windows doors or other openings.  The other end of the exhaust pipe connects to the fan. 

The fan can be wired in two ways by either connecting directly into the house wiring or by installing an extension cord that can be plugged into an electrical outlet.  Protocol requires the ability to disconnect the electrical connection within a foot and a half of the fan.

A small jackhammer is used to break up some of the concrete covering the drain tile system previously installed by Standard Water.  In order to put the exhaust pipe as close to the wall as possible part of the footing is trimmed away.  The exposed drain tile is cut to make room for a 3” T connection that is glued in place.  The rest of the indoor assembly is glued in, the gravel, moisture barrier and cement replaced and professionally finished.

Outside a urethane caulk is used to seal around the pipe leading into the house.  Inside a vacuum monitor is installed; it is used as a visual check to ensure the fan is working. 

The homeowner will conduct a short term radon test two days after the installation is finished.  A second, long term test is conducted to ensure radon is reduced to an acceptable level. 

Ask your Standard Water Control Representative about radon mitigation in your home.  When it comes to the safety of your family, rely on the best in the business, Standard Water Control.

View Photo Gallery