Standard Water Control Systems

FOUNDATION WALL 

Q: Why are my walls damp looking in some areas?

A: The most common reason for damp looking blocks is the wicking of moisture from the damp/wet soil on the exterior of the basement wall. The bottom of the wall may be affected more since the greatest concentration of moisture exists there. This is not an indication of water sitting inside the cavities of the block. Another possibility is high humidity causing condensation on the cool surface of the foundation wall. There are a few things that can help solve this.

1. Remove humidity from the basement with a dehumidifier to control condensation.

2. Make improvements to grade, draining as much surface water as possible away from foundation.

3. Maintain gutters and lengthen downspouts.

4. Seal the foundation walls.

5. Apply a vapor barrier directly to inside of foundation wall prior to finishing. (Code Requirement)

Visit Minnesota Department of Commerce @ www.commerce.state.mn.us and visit their Energy Info Center’s Home Energy Guide for more info.

Q: I have black stuff - or brown stuff - or white fuzzy powdery stuff on my foundation wall. What is it and how do I get rid of it? Could it be mold?

A: In most cases this is efflorescence. If you are concerned that there may be mold present, you can have it tested by a mold testing/removal contractor. Efflorescence is excess minerals and salts which form as blotchy, powdery or crystalline deposits on the surface of the masonry walls and other concrete surfaces. Over time efflorescence loses its transparency and eventually will turn black, especially when it finally works its way out from behind certain paints. One recommended way to remove efflorescence is to use a wire brush and wash the area first with water. Then scrub with a solution consisting of one part vinegar and five parts water. Elbow grease may be required. Immediately wash again with an alkaline wash consisting of diluted household ammonia.

 

WATER ALARM 

Q: What is the purpose of the water alarm?

A: The alarm can alert you of immediate or potential problems, the most important one being pump malfunction.

 

Q: What should I do if my water alarm goes off?

A: 1. The alarm will sound up to three days at 110dB when water reaches or gets on the metal contacts on the sensors. Check and make sure the pump is plugged in securely and that there is power to the electrical outlet.

2. Remove the bolts from the sump basin cover and move to the side so you can look inside to see what has caused the water sensors to get wet. The sensors are two square wafers mounted about 6” from the top and has wires going from them to the alarm unit. One is mounted to the side of the basin and the other is attached to the discharge in the center.

3. If the water level in the basin has risen to the sensors, the pump is not working and may need to be replaced. If you’ve checked power source and other possibilities and you still can’t get the pump to come on, replace the pump or call Standard Water Control at 1-800-978-7867 for service.

4. If the water level hasn’t risen to the sensors, check to make sure that the sensors haven’t been knocked loose and fallen into the bottom of the sump basin. Or, it may be receiving some spray that may occur from the breather hole located at the bottom of the check valve just before the pump shuts off. There also may be a loose hose clamp allowing some spray. Observe pump while it is running to detect any of these possibilities and tighten any loose fittings and/or readjust the sensor’s position to keep it from getting wet.

5. Occasionally water gets spilled on the cover of the sump basin and the water can follow the wire down to the sensor and cause it to go off. Dry off wire and sensor.

 

Q: How often should I change the battery?

A: Replace the battery if the alarm has gone off for an extended period of time, or if the battery expiration date is approaching. Otherwise, a fresh alkaline battery will last 24-48 months. To replace the battery remove the cover on the battery compartment on the right side of the alarm. Extend the wires and snap a fresh 9-volt battery onto the connector. Place the battery back into the compartment. Replace the cover. You may want to mark the battery expiration date on a piece of tape and attach it to the alarm each time you install a fresh one.

 

Q: How do I shut off the alarm?

A: Remove the sensor from the source of water and dry off. The alarm may continue to sound even after it’s been removed from the water. If so, remove the battery and allow to dry for a couple hours.

 

BACKUP PUMPS

If you purchased the optional Battery Backup Sump Pump System, please refer to the instruction manual that was provided with it. If you experience problems that the manual doesn’t address you can receive technical support by calling Glentronics, Inc. at 800-991-0466 or call Standard Water Control at 1-800-978-7867 for service.

 

Q: The alarm on my backup pump is going off.

A: Look at the front of the control module that features a series of warning lights that pinpoint potential problems. Read the text next to the warning light that is on and follow the instructions. You can silence the alarm by firmly pressing the gray button for 7-10 seconds.

Refer to the instruction manual.

 

PUMP

Q: My pump is running, no water is pumping out and the cover is hot.

A: Unplug your pump immediately. Check the discharge pipe for obstructions such as ice. You may need to remove the cover to see that the clamps didn’t come loose and disconnected or the check valve might have failed.

 

Q: Should the pump remain plugged in year round?

A: Yes. Check to make sure the pump is plugged in when the job is completed. The pump has a 10’ cord. If the cord is only sticking out of the top of the sump basin a few inches, gently pull the cord out and plug it in.

 

Q: What type of electrical outlet is needed for the pump?

A: The pump draws 9 amps. A grounded outlet on a 15-amp circuit should be adequate.

 

Q: Does the pump have a check valve?

A:  Yes. The check valve is attached to the pump. It prevents the back flow of water from the discharge pipe.

 

Q: How high should the water get in the sump basin before the pump turns on?

A: The pump has a pressure switch that activates the pump when the water level is 7 to 10 inches deep, which can be 2-5 inches above the top of the pump. It will shut off at 1 to 4 inches deep. You may notice a small spray of water at the base of the check valve just before the pump shuts off. This is normal. There is a small breather hole drilled there to help prevent air lock.

 

Q: How can I test the pump?

A: Remove the bolts and slide the basin cover over a few inches or remove the rubber plug around the power cord and water alarm wire and start adding water. You can pour the water in or insert a garden hose. The pump will come on when the water gets deep enough to activate the pump. Be careful not to get water alarm sensors wet.

 

Q: How long is the warranty on the pump?

A: The pump is warranted by the manufacturer against defects for one year from the date of installation. It is recommended that you check with your homeowner’s insurance agent to obtain a rider to cover damages should the pump malfunction. Not all insurance companies have this available, so you may want to shop around.

 

Q: How long will my pump last?

A: This depends on how much it runs. Most pumps last 5 to 7 years.

 

Q: Whom should I call for service?

A: You can call Standard Water Control for service on pumps 24 hours a day at 1-800-978-7867.

 

DISCHARGE PIPE

Q: Can I leave my discharge pipe extension on all year round?

A: We recommend removing the extension and leaving off during the winter months and reattaching in the spring. If the extension is plugged or blocked with ice, the pump will not be able to get rid of accumulated water. Follow us on Twitter for reminders.

 

Q: Can I bury my discharge pipe?

A: We do not recommend you doing this, due to the possibility of water freezing and cracking the pipe during the winter months. We do offer installation of buried discharge systems when applicable. Check out our Free Flow Discharge System Brochure, or go check it out at standardwater.com. Call for details.

 

Q: Can I pump the water into the sanitary sewer?

A: NO. In most municipalities this is a code violation.

 

Q: Can my discharge pipe be moved, extended or repaired if it gets broken?

A: Yes, However there will be a service charge for us to do this or you may repair it yourself. Call for details.

 

Q: Why are there two pipes coming out of my house?

A: One is the primary pump discharge and the other one is for a emergency backup pump discharge. If you did not purchase a backup pump this pipe should be capped and ready for possible future installation of a backup pump. Backup pump discharge pipes should be kept as short as possible. Keep in mind it is only used as an emergency backup.

 

Q: Can I have you come out and check my pump and discharge system?

A: Yes. However there will be a service charge to do this. Please call for prices and details.

 

CONCRETE

Q: Why are cracks appearing in the new concrete and is it normal?

A: Yes, this is normal. Concrete shrinks as it dries and shrinkage cracks appear.

 

Q: Will water come up thru the cracks?

A: No. Standard Water installs a plastic vapor barrier between the drain tile system and the new concrete, which keeps water from coming up through the new concrete.

 

Q: The seam between the old cement and the new looks damp. Is there water coming up thru there?

A: No. The plastic over the gravel below the concrete ends at that area. When the temperature and humidity in the basement relative to the temperature of the floor in that area are right, the floor will discolor from condensation. (Cold water/soil below floor vs. warm/humid air in basement.) The plastic adds a degree of insulation hence the seam being the most affected area. More intense conditions may cause more darkening or even sweating. Reduce humidity with a dehumidifier and promote more air exchange. Seal the new concrete.

 

Q: Should I seal the new concrete?

A: Yes. We recommend sealing the seam and the new concrete with a water based, interior use concrete sealer. Sealing the concrete helps prevent condensation, discoloration and dusting. Some sealers can be applied while concrete is curing. Refer to product manufacturers‘ specifications. TK Tri-Seal, available from Brock White Construction Supplies is one of many good products.

 

Q: How long does it take for the concrete to dry before I can move things back?

A: Typically 2 – 3 days is sufficient for moving things back. It may take approximately 30 – 45 days for the concrete to cure before all the dark looking areas disappear, depending on conditions. If you are installing any floor covering it’s best to wait until concrete is completely dry.

 

Q: Can I nail into the new concrete?

A: It is preferred you do not. The new concrete is a richer mix for strength, making it more brittle. Using a construction type adhesive on carpet tack strips and framing base plates is recommended. If you do nail into concrete to help hold wood in place as the adhesive sets, use caution and stop if the concrete starts to break up. When using nails, pre-drill holes and limit penetration to less than 3/4 inch.

 

Q: How do I remove excess concrete off the sump pump cover and Diamond Drainage Board?

A: Use a putty knife and steel wool or similar items after concrete is dry. This is just residual concrete, which will come off easily. Use mild soapy water to remove the rest.